Warning: This is a long travel post!
Sometimes it's good to stop… If you're still alive, it's still possible to add some meaning to your breathing, to experience a life that has been forgotten and never seen before, off the coast of Istanbul.
One of the islands we stopped by: A view from Burgazada
Büyükada, which is called Prinkipos in ancient Greek, is the largest of the islands known as the Prince Islands off Istanbul. Prinkipos means PRINCE. The story of this name is also interesting; It was called the Princes' Islands since the Roman Empire until after the Byzantine period, where nobles, princes and even queens were exiled to the islands and killed by various tortures. In other words, these lands, which once smelled of death, left their place to the realm of pleasure in the Ottoman Empire, and recently await those who miss the old Istanbul on their streets.
Panaromic view from Yücetepe
Let's check your backpack before starting our day trip; Camera, Istanbulkart, hat to protect from the heat (I think the most important thing. Although you can't buy it, it is sold on every corner on the island.), sunglasses and spare t-shirts… Everything is ok. It's time for a trip… Don't forget to visit this island alone, you'll get bored. If so, I would recommend you to go with your spouse (I went with my wife) or with a large group of friends. Fun is guaranteed.
Table showing the capacity of the steamer
You can go to the islands, where transportation is very easy, from Istanbul by City Lines Ferry, Sea Buses, Sea Taxi and Private Agencies. Of course, the cheapest method is the City Lines Ferries. We had already taken Istanbulkart with us for this. On a sunny Saturday, it takes approximately one and a half hours from Kabataş to reach Büyükada. The capacity of these ferries in summer can reach 2100. After stopping by Kadıköy, Kınalıada, Burgazada and Heybeliada respectively, you arrive at Büyükada. It would not be a lie if we say that we hardly found a bench to sit on while we were going. Not to mention the Japanese tourists sitting on the floor playing cards. On this long sea voyage, don't forget to get on the deck and throw a bagel to the seagulls traveling with you. Otherwise they won't let you go. In addition, if you did not have breakfast before leaving the shores of Istanbul, you can have breakfast at an affordable price at the buffet where hot tea is also sold.
40-year-old Japanese from Istanbul on the City Lines Ferry :)
An Istanbul classic, FERRY-SİMİT-ÇAY and the Sea of Marmara. The day started well. Finally, we approach the Büyükada Pier with the seagulls. Judgment is crowded so you shouldn't go on weekends in summer. No steps are taken from the crowd, neither on the island nor on the ferry. Of course, this was an experience I had at the end of the day. As soon as we got to the island, the first thing we did was to taste Roman Ice Cream. I had heard about the reputation of this ice cream, but it is another pleasure to taste. I can say it was the best fruit ice cream I've ever eaten. It shouldn't be missed.
Free-rider passengers of the ferry
The clock tower that welcomes you in the square is ironic as if it reminds you of the time and invites you to the island to forget later. In the center; There are hotels-motels and pensions, shops that rent bicycles, restaurants, patisseries. We immediately made a plan and decided to tour Büyükada by bike before noon. The name of the tour, which includes inhabited areas, is Küçük Tour. If you say no, I will see places where there are no settlements, you have to make a 14-kilometer tour.
Seasonal flowers are everywhere…
The flowery roads of the island…
Dozens of bike rental shops in the center do not have a common schedule. Some rent it for 50 TL per day, some for 40 TL. You can find a cyclist for 30 TL per day by walking around a bit, as we did. I always follow this rule, do not buy anything in places like this without asking for 10 different prices for the same product. You are likely to be scammed.
Bicycle is life.
As for the points to be considered when renting a bicycle;
- The seat should be comfortable.
- Be sure to check the brakes, because the island is very steep.
- The air in the tire should be good.
- If it is geared, make sure to check first gear, otherwise you will have to go in second gear like me.
- Get a basket. In this basket we will put our camera and water bottle. Our water bottle does not need to be very large, there is a market or peddler almost every 100 meters on the island.
- They also provide locks, you will need to lock your bike while climbing Aya Yorgi.
Don't forget the bike. Then, you're more likely to stay on track. Although the island is small, there are many travelers helping. Like the Azeri brothers who helped us… After all this advice, we can now start our BIG TOUR. force on the pedals. This is like a city consisting of Soğukçeşme Street in Sultanahmet. The only difference is that every street in Büyükada is full of historical old houses, villas and mansions. There are hardly any modern buildings. If you like historical mansions and buildings like me, this island is for you. It's like an open air museum. You feel yourself in the streets of old Istanbul, peace fills you.
A doomed wooden mansion looks gorgeous in summer flowers.
When the streets are finished, picnic and resting areas begin. One of the negative aspects of Büyükada is that you have to pay for everything, including parking your bike. After reporting this unpleasant situation to the authorities with this letter, we arrive at Unity Square.
Aya Yorgi Church
Our aim is to visit the Hagia Yorgi Church, which is one of the two pilgrimage points accepted by Christians, along with the house of the Virgin Mary, located near Ephesus. This church, which is 1 km from the Union Square, seemed like 5 km to us because it is located on a hill. It's kind of a test of patience, I guess. The church is very well preserved and has a wonderful 360-degree view of the Marmara Sea. Anyone can make a wish and light a candle. Of course, making a small donation is an unwritten rule. You can also dine at the restaurant right next to the church. We were very hungry and sat in this restaurant to eat something. The view at the back is nicer. Food is mediocre. I'd say don't expect too much. After the meal, we set off towards a mystical and mysterious structure, this time with our bikes, which we locked in Unity Square.
The view of Marmara on the hill I mentioned…
The Old Greek Orphanage on Manastır Hill, just opposite the church, about 1 km away. It is accepted as the world's first multi-storey wooden structure, the world's second largest and Europe's largest wooden structure. The building, which was built as a hotel between 1898-99, was bought by a Greek woman at no cost and donated to the patriarchate for the purpose of making an orphanage, as she could not get the necessary permissions from the administration of that period. The building, which was used for this purpose until 1960, was later used as a barracks. In 1964, it awaits its end like an old tree that has been hastily emptied and has since been abandoned to its fate. It's a sad story. I hope that its fate will be determined as soon as possible and it will be brought to Turkish Tourism.
View of the mysterious Old Greek Orphanage from Yücetepe
The orphanage is locked and no entry
Creepy and wonderful
After the minutes in the Orphanage, we had to change our route to the city center again. Our aim was the big tour, as I said at the beginning, but the bulky and unaccustomed body of Istanbulites is also to some extent. By the way, as someone who hasn't been on a bike for a long time and hasn't done any sports, I still have pain in my joints in Büyükada the day after I write these lines. So we had to cut our tour short. Going down from the hill to the center was the most enjoyable part of the tour. The fragrant forest scent ignites the insatiable enthusiasm for life. You can even go for this feeling. Because time has stopped here, life goes on. Again, we pass through beautiful streets and pedal a little towards the other end. When we reached the beach, we felt tired and sat in the cafe to drink a sage. It is not known whether the sage we drink here tastes like ice cream, because I drank it against Marmara, it does not resemble any tea. We breathe in the warm sea air, stop, rest. Since we did not make our reservation in advance, we could not find a room in any hotel, and what we found was very expensive. If you have made your plan well in advance and you want to stay on the island, I recommend that you make your reservation well in advance.
Now
it was time to slowly leave this old time city… It would not be possible to come to Büyükada and not go to a cute fish restaurant without eating fish and bread. And one of the things to do is to take a magnet to your fridge and go to the ferry that will leave the island with good memories.
Writer: Fatih
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